Anamorphic materials is basically a material that changes it's properties when affected in one way or another. In our case we use heat when we print with PLA. This has a number of consequences that we must understand to be able to use the material as much as possible.

One usual problem is that you buy a PLA from anyware and when you take it through your printer it does not addhere to the printplate no matter what you do?! This is a problem that most PLA can cause as a problem more or less. The first we do is to start checking that the temperature is correct, but this is often refered to in a erroniouse way. We will discuss the problem with printers and their hot ends in a minute.

The adhereance between PLA and the printplate can be resolved in many ways. One way that we use is to hold a glass surface ontop of the actual heated printplate. This is basically a VERY GOOD way to take care of a lot of problems but not nesecery a solution for everything. The glass surface can be TO PERFECT for the PLA to adhere to. What to do. There are in fact a nuber of things you can do like:

You can cover the surface with the tape material KAPTON a superd surface cleans with aceton between every print.

You can cover the surface with BLUE TAPE basically a non fatty cover all tape for building restauration when painting.

You can spray the glass surface with hairspray a less used techniquie but actually works for some.

You can clean the surface with aceton and see if that helps and finaly you can try different glass!

Glass has different properties if you take an old piece or if you buy a new piece, also what type of glass you use is of importance. There are actually many different types of glass out there and that also matters for the quallity and ease of the print.



The temperature is often used as and looked at as the big solver of all problems but it realy isn't that at all. Correct temeperature is important no discussion about that... But what you have on your printer is a compromis between several design problems to create a reliable hotend. What your printer reports back to you as the actual temperature is in fact not at all correct. I don't say that some printers have a very good temperature feedback, but the design it self is actually a compromise in it self. We use to start of with a 100K thermistor that is a resistor that is instable with temperature. These thermistors is to start 5% in difference when manufactured. That does not sound much, but calkulate a little. 5% of 100000 is 5000 ohm in error on that specific component. The temperature curve is then further integrated in zones to make the math a bit simpler since the heat curve is not linear in any way! Next problem, all heat ressistors is also about 5% in error re their values.

So we have now identifyed 2 sources why two brand new calibrated and funtioning printers does not give the same temp and never will! Next error zone the mounting of the heating resistor is very important... If you use wrong scillica the glue it self will actually modify the actual heatcurve that your printer have. If you have no glue just press it in that gives another type of heating ineffective when cold and a bit better when heating up, WHY? Beacuse the ressistor will expand slightly when heating up. Another trick is to wrap the ressistor in aluminium foil and squeece it in it's place.. This will give you a third distinct curve.

Mounting of the temp sensor...

In this case our tempsensor a small glass bead with two copper wires sticking out, how much wrong can you get ?? Well first of all this is a 100K resisstor and to begin with that means you have between 95K and 105K resistor in your hand. Mounting is often done with a heat ressistant plastic pressing the bead against let's say a bronse heatblock. This is in it self a sound way of doing it. We cant have to much pressure on the bead cause it will crack! But anything pressed against a moving material will ofcourse have different abillitys to "feel" the temperature. First of all let's get one thing strainght, what is heat rely??? Well it is basically movement vibration in this case.. So we messure a vibrating effect with a glassbead... Can you see that we have another reason for error here.. This should not matter much at all, but add together all the small errors and start looking to the whole of the matter, then you should realize that things can go wrong here or there.

Another possible error you can do.

When you got your printer kit you folded the wires into nice small bags or that was already done for you. When you want to use them you unfold and streach them a little bit to make it easier to work with... Well here we have more POSSIBLE faults coming, if you have managed to create micro breaks or folding lines in the material in the cable it self you will have more ressistance that will misslead the temperature reading.

What I wanted to clear up with this text was the awareness that many small things can accumulate into something that gives your printer such characteristics that Temperature is not always the answer, especially not what the computer reads. This should be tested how your equiptement actually has been fairing during build, not saying that ready made systems are a bit better than home built.

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